Yanesen is a pretty, olde-worlde district in the north-eastern side of Tokyo. It gets its name from the group of neighbourhoods that together form the area – Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi: YA-NE-SEN. It’s a great example of a ‘shitamachi’. These are traditional, old-style neighbourhoods which were once a hive of activity and to this day still have a lovely nostalgic ambiance. In Yanesen, there are lots of historical, old buildings from the Edo Period that are thankfully still standing, as the area managed to survive the Great Kanto Earthquake and Fire of 1923, and also avoid the mass bombing during the Second World War. In the past, the area was a thriving artisan town housing some of the country’s most famous writers and artists. Nowadays a number of sites and buildings have been renovated as cafes, restaurants, and facilities for visitors, and Yanesen has become one of the most attractive areas in Tokyo. Most people think of Tokyo as being really modern and full of sky scrapers, and this is true in many areas, but visiting a low-key old downtown area feels more interesting for those who have already visited the main tourist sites in Tokyo.

Yanesen is situated in the heart of Tokyo, but amazingly you can find calm here, and also see the daily life of the local people.  This area is not a ‘posh’ or ‘showy’ area, so it’s a very relaxing and comfortable place to be where everyone can be themselves. Every time I go back to Japan, I go to Nezu Shrine to pray and to say ‘I am back home’ because I used to go there for Hatsumode every year. Hatsumode is the Japanese tradition of visiting a shrine or temple for the first time in the New Year, where people pray in hope of having a good year ahead. Right now is a beautiful time to visit the shrine as the azalea are in full bloom. Here are some photos taken last week!

 

 

Another thing I like about Yanesen is how central it is – it’s like a little old world right in the middle of Tokyo. This means you can get to different places easily. For example I like to stroll through the Yanesen area and then on to Ueno park to see the Shinobazu Pond, visit museums and do shopping in Ameyoko area. Ueno boasts several great destinations such as the Tokyo National Museum, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art. Why not spend half a day in the Yanesen area then go to Ueno in the afternoon?

1. Snacking Along Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street

 

The easiest place to start exploring is the old Yanaka Ginza shopping street which is a short walk from Nippori Station. You will work up an appetite going from place to place and there’s no better location to be for trying different snacks and discovering Japanese traditional foods.

2. Yanaka Cemetery

 

I recommend strolling through Yanaka Cem​etery, which is the final resting place of historical figures, such as Yoshinobu, the final Tokugawa shogun. It is particularly picturesque during springtime due to the cherry trees that line up its Sakura-Dori Street.

 

3. Asakura Museum of Sculpture

 

The museum was once the home and studio of Japanese Sculptor Asakura Fumio (1883-1964). He designed the house, studio and garden himself and took over seven years to complete the project. Today it’s a really lovely place to visit and just a five-minute walk from Nippori station.

４. Visit Nezu Shrine